Masonry 2014

Designing A Brick Arch



     When constructing a brick arch, the first step in the process is to draw the arch on paper.  The arch that was designed had an 8” rise which means that the diameter was 16.”  Another factor when designing the arch and figuring out how the bricks needed to be cut was the fact that the length of the bricks had to be 6” in order to fit the intended design. 
     Construction started by drawing the arch at a 1:1 scale.  A bow compass was used to draw the inside of the arch by pointing in the compass at the midpoint of the 16” line and extending it 8” out.  Once the inside dimension was drawn, the compass was extended an additional 6” to provide the outer dimension of the bricks.  A compass then used to mark around the circumference of the arch to determine how many bricks it would take to construct the desired arch.  It was known the width of the bricks that were used was 2 -5/8” and the joints were going to be 3/8.”  In order to determine how many bricks were required, a joint was drawn at the springing point of the left side arch, and a compass set a 3” was pointed in on the top line of the joint and struck the next point on the arch.  This 3” setting accounted for the thickness of the next brick and joint which was carried around the outside line of the arch.  When doing this procedure, always strike the mark for the next brick and measure back for the joint.
     After passing the compass around the outside of the arch, it was determined that 17 bricks were required to complete the arch.  The next step was to align a straightedge that touched the midpoint of the arch line and the point on the outside of the arch that indicated where a brick was to be placed and a line drawn from the exterior to interior of the arch.  This produced the pie –shaped brick that need to be cut while keeping the joints parallel to bricks.
     Once the arch was drawn to full scale and deemed to be functional, a template of the bricks was made out of card and provided the angles for the brick cuts.  The card was placed over the arch and the process of using the compass and straightedge was repeated to produce an accurate template.  Essentially, the drawing of the arch was repeated just enough to create one full brick.  A utility knife and straightedge were then used to cut the card on a cutting mat.







Arch Form

Side View of Form

     The arch form was created by drawing an arch on ¾” plywood that was ½” shorter in diameter than the original.  The ½” provided room for the arch to drop once the form was removed and accounted for the thickness of the lath strips that enclosed the form.  Two identical arches, which provided the sides of the form, were drawn onto the wood and cut with a jigsaw.  A belt sander was used to smooth the cuts and bring them down to the exact measurement line.  The next step was building the internal support blocks that would be used to fasten the form together.  The total with of the form needed to be around 5” in order to match the thickness of a stone arch that would be flanking the brick arch once constructed.  Measurements were taken and found that the in order to match the 5” stone arch, the internal supports needed to be about 3 -1/2” while accounting for the 1 -1/2” total thickness of the plywood sides.  A centerline was then drawn on to divide the arch that was penciled on the plywood.  It was determined that 3 internal supports need to be placed along the bottom of the interior of the form and 3 need to be placed around the top of arch.  In order to ensure equal placement, a 45 triangle used to divide the two sections to the left and right of the centerline.  These lines were drawn and were aligned with the center of each support block which provided uniform placement.  Clamps were then used to fasten the blocks to one side of the arch form.  Screw holes were counter sunk and the support blocks were attached the side.  Once one side was attached to the internal support, the other side was clamped on and screwed together to complete the form.  3/16” thick lath that measured 5” long were then cut to a width of 1 -1/2.”  These provided the outer covering of the arch and installed with screws.  The final step in the construction of the form was to apply shellac.  This provided aesthetically pleasing finish while sealing wood from moisture penetration.

Shellac Coating


Designing a Jig for Cutting Arch Bricks

Jig that Produces the Correct Cutting Angles
 
     The appearance of a brick arch relies heavily on the cuts of the brick.  While arch can possible created without cutting the bricks, nothing compares to an arch were each brick has been precisely cut.  Cutting begins by setting the angles that are dictated by the template mentioned previously.  A piece of plywood was cut to match the dimensions of the cutting deck of the brick saw.  The blade of the saw was run lightly over the wood to establish the cutting width and placement of the blade.  The dimensions of the brick were drawn on a piece of card and the center line of the template was aligned with the center line of brick.  This produced the slices that needed to be cut from each side of the brick.  A second template was created with the slice from one side of the brick removed.  The template was then aligned with the cut mark on the board and a piece of wood was attached along the outer edge of the template to set the angle.  A block of wood was attached at the back of the cut line to provide a rest for the brick when being pushed through the saw.  This particular jig only provides the angle for one cut of the brick, so the process was repeated to create a jig that matched the other angle. 

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